amarillo

Amarillo. A flash of congestion seen from the high speed highway; chain hotels, chain restaurants.

Palo Duro creek runs quiet in Canyon, ten miles south, where Panhandle Plains museum, located at Panhandle Plains A&M university, provided refuge from the morning fog.

We drove an hour (Texas speeds) to see Caprock Canyon State Park and Palo Duro canyon. Barely escaped Palo duro gift shop, as I was checking email in the toilet at closing time.

Looks like the new big foot sculpture will sell. Will post a pic when I am able.

Tomorrow - hot foot for Santa fe.

sun and clouds

This is a sunny Arizona morning in the summer of 1984;

a farm boy headed to California.

Healy Siding. Healy, AK.

Another watercolor landscape.  It is a rainy day in 2014.  The power plant (using local coal), the airport, and the town are located downstream of Denali National Park.  Raft trips end their run across the spur road from the Alaska Railroad siding here.  Observation cars are parked in the yard.

This is SE Alaska. Oil painting on board.  I have darkened the browns and over painted with clear medium since this image was taken.  

end of the year

It is here.  The end of the year.  Just a few deliveries to be made. One more Saturday afternoon at the Nest, Tulsa, with a few items set out for sale.  The kiln is cooling down from its last firing of 2014. Time to count everything. Inventory.

This drawing is a couple weeks old.  Hannah paints tiles for me in the studio.  She is young and busy with jobs and friends, and has been painting tiles off and on for quite a while.

This sculpture, currently in the kiln, is the first 'big foot' sculpture I've done in a couple of years.  She is being fired with underglaze painting, bearing a pear on the platter.  She will most likely be finished with oil colors to add brightness to her shoes. 

doggerel for the downpour

Though rain is a pain
I sell pots for gain.
So come to my studio,
and get in the moodio.

Once again I've called in a storm with my open studio event.  This time rain is coming in on the full moon.  Should be wet on friday morning. perhaps my old tent will finally meet its waterloo.

I've chosen to display an oklahoma landscape, 9" x 12", oil on board, from the spring of this year. I added a coat of clear medium on weds morning to give a finished look. My oklahoma scenes are my most popular topic here in the land of milk and honey.  I often wonder while driving west on Hwy 412 what it must have been like before the aquifer was drained below the surface.

Sold 6/20/2015 to Louise, who travels through southern oklahoma on her way to vacation at Caddo Lake on the borders of Texas and Louisiana.

Quo Vadis

As all narratives must, there is a beginning.  Quo vadis Joe?  I go to learn the lessons of a life lived.  February found us in the land of bars; but the chief bar maker had turned in her apron.  A life lived.  A story told.  As usual I found something to regret, having been pre-occupied during our last conversation.  I missed a last chance to speak with her. I am in the center of the front row, having realized that she found hope and fulfillment in a daily affirmation of herself and others.

glimpse of the past

This old shack sat directly across the road from our room at the Driftwood Motel.  It is surrounded by 'modern' buildings and resort properties. I assume it is either left to slowly deteriorate while providing local ambiance or that someone comes down from anchorage for a week or two each year to take up residence during a fishing season of choice. It is certainly crusty; but it persists.

Bishop's Beach, Homer, AK pencil drawing

View of Bishop's Beach in old town Homer, AK.We stayed at the Driftwood Inn.  The room was tiny, but parking was right at the room and I was able to sketch Katchemak bay with glaciers overlooking from in front of the room.

autumn bitches

Fall in Oklahoma - when it occurs - if it occurs - is a lovely season. Occurring slowly, outlasting the leaves with warm patience. Yellows top the greens in early morning golden glow. Faint soft blues and fluffy whites await in stillness the days' south wind; doors stand at parade rest, awaiting the north wind and my convenience.

. . . that was then. This is now. A hard freeze, brisk winds, a trip to the dentist, time clicking to the holiday countdown. Life can go either way.

Studio work will focus on ceramics for the next month, and a good thing since I'm boxed in on a dozen paintings. Good things happen. I just can't bring them to a finish.

So, slab work, sculpture, okie mugs, here we go.

barking dog

13900 miles. 80 days. 61° longitude. 50 blog posts. 32° latitude. 5 reasons not to camp. 4 nights camping. 1 arctic circle.

One homecoming. One barking dog.

shift to the ordinary

We've seen it all before, of course, but never has it seemed so ordinary. Tomorrow we hit the permanent campsite with all its attendant troubles and cares, traded for what has become our routine. I'm interested to see whether we are energized or enervated. There will certainly be plenty to do. One last entry tomorrow, then its time to refocus my thoughts.

green Chile flavored pistachios

The blog title says it all. If you are reading this blog, chances are you'll get a pound for Christmas. Very strange restaurant for dinner. Named Oles but they had no curds. Go figure. I guess this ain't no dairy state. The states get less green as we go.  From here, we know the way.

skyscapes and shadows

Wyoming. The equality state. The first state in which women achieved the vote.  The sky is full here; the horizon low; the land empty. We are experiencing reverse sticker shock. Food and gas are cheap. Prices are low. A very active rail yard here. Our accommodation is large, and we responded by relaxing into an extra day here in Cheyenne.

During the latter part of our trip, we saw light from a sun low on the horizon.  Much different from the first part of the trip, going into the north, with the days longer and the sun revolving around the sky to our south day after day.  No darkness forever.  No long shadows.  No refuge for sleep.  That changed as we came south.  The shadows in Wyoming were magnificent; and when we came to the thicker atmosphere closer to home - I pulled out the sun glasses and put them on to combat the glitter and glare of the sun in the thicker atmosphere of Oklahoma.  

wagon ho

Travel day today. Bring the heat and the big empty. After visiting the Evergreen state and the Treasure state, we'll see if Wyoming's nature reveals itself.

Cody center nice. Cody itself clean and friendly. Another town that requires a longer stay to float the river, go Chief Joseph's way and visit the bighorn.

Shoshone river meanders almost unmolested through town. I guess at time of development flooding kept the close approaches clear.

circling the drain

Cody, wy; sept: 68°F. Couldn't be nicer. Donated to the stockman's fund. Chowed on a NY strip and tater loaded. Clean and prosperous town just through the tunnel from the dammed up Shoshone river. They must have really wanted that lake because the stretches of that river still running free are beautiful at the bounds of description, right up there with the most beautiful places I've ever seen. And that's after driving through Yellowstone park earlier the same day.

Grand canyon of the Yellowstone is a beautiful fairy tale - set off for its safe keeping just beyond barricades. It didn't sneak up on me like the first time I saw it. We visited the north rim sites, including a hike down to the verge of the lower falls. It is more spectacular than any of the falls we saw up close in canada, with the Athabasca falls a different, but close second. The canyon gets it the first place vote.

We also visited along the river in the expansive Hayden valley. It is seductively large, and brings home the value of the national parks, as no subdivisions clutter the view. My biggest surprise was Yellowstone lake as it floated, a dreamlike emerald expanse, at 7000 feet. I heard tales of the fishing bridge from someone who was there before the spawning run was protected in 1973.

I'm not really sure when I first visited west Yellowstone, but I remember it as little more than a single street of motels and services. Development marches on there. A travesty in the making.

Next - prelude to the home stretch. Can we find our way down the drain - to home?

PS. Due apologies to the Madison river and the western approach to the park, which are also spectacular.

escape from seattle

Okay - Seattle wasn't my best moment. Got lost there. Never really got found. Very sobering. had a great Italian meal - if it was easy, everyone would do it. Seattle art museum was (for me) just OK. Liked the abstract modernism anyway.

We escaped on 90E. Crossed the high desert to Spokane. Had to detour from near ellensburg to vantage. Route took us past whiskey dick (no kidding) mountain. Saw columbia river and took a moment to regret we weren't going to view the grand coulee dam.

Trees magically appeared about 20 miles west of spokane. Arrived on a lovely early September day. Woke up in a cloud that followed us almost to Missoula, so we missed Idaho scenery. Stopped for lunch in Missoula. Found it so lovely we decided to stay for the night. Spent time at the Monte dolack gallery, the new Radius gallery, and the marvelous Dana gallery.

Tomorrow night west Yellowstone - are you ready for some football?

back in the ussa

Came along the Thompson river canyon and past hell's gate of the Fraser river canyon. Semi arid climate with irrigation water for the fruits and vegetables. Stopped at a street festival. Spoke with a fruit vendor/longtime resident whose smile reminded me very much of the kindness of robin Williams. He spoke of the gold miners heading north on the highway early each spring on their way to work claims in alaska. Evidently local growers are as protective of their marijuana plots as gold miners are of their claims. Watched whitewater rafters coming down the river gorge. Stayed in Hope.

Drove into Seattle today. We had to backtrack for some stuff we left in hope so trip took longer than planned. Crossed border at Sumas. After arriving, we stopped at pikes place market to have dinner at an Irish pub. Still measuring the seafood against Alaskan fare.

smithers south ( and happy bday DG)

We've seen smithers. It had a railroad; something the cassiar hwy towns lacked. They had tales of the telegraph and a gold rush in the 1870s. Also a jade mine and bucolic kitwanga at its end.

The farm scenes just north of smithers, with hay bales beneath treed mtn slopes and glaciers, were beautiful.

Today we drove past the turn to Likely, the scene of the recent, horrendous tailings dam failure of the Polley mine. Just on down the Fraser river valley we came to Quesnel, which busily raises dust and sawdust and other airborne pollutants. Its gold rush occurred in the 1840s. The valley was so hazy for many miles that we suspected a forest fire was the cause, but nothing on the news.

Then we came down past soda creek and the canyon to Williams lake, which is laid out along the valley and the shelf and which is also quite busy.

The roads are much better and faster, and with fields and haze and people we feel like the north is behind us. There is dark each day and it is easier to sleep, and see the dusk and dawn.

And finally, happy birthday to dg. Sorry to miss the bbq, but I ate a couple of wursts last night as a gesture of solidarity.

SSE Alaska, BC wilds

A surprise jewel:  rusted, corroded, mossy, abandoned. Hyder Alaska doesn't offer much, except glaciers, NPS sponsored bear viewing on fish creek, fresh seafood to eat, and fishing on the relatively calm waters of Portland fjord/canal. Located next to Stewart,BC, just 40 miles or so off the north/south cassiar highway. The drive features bears and glaciers. Flat land meets salt here, within a straight sided valley.

Plenty of real photographers (as opposed to what i do with the camera) return there each year for the bears and wolves. The pink salmon and chum return for their own reasons.

We had to negotiate a traffic scrum back on the cassiar. I was rewarded with a close view (12 ft) of a grizzly emerging from a creek culvert as I stopped there on the bridge.

Down the highway I realized we had not bought gas before leaving Stewart. Thank goodness we'd stashed some extra in back for the Dempster highway run.  Our eventual fill up cost $109 US.

Yukon rearview

Best views yesterday (Monday) were in the rearview mirror. Felt like we were coming out of the country as we passed familiar landmarks. Stopped to see and sketch once at teslin   river with Simpson (?) Mountains in the background.

 Bought an Alaska hwy bumper sticker, as we are leaving that route on Tuesday. Heading south; having visited Watson Lake. Whitehorse, haines junction, Mayo, Eagle Plains, Dawson City, Pelly Crossing in the Yukon.

Started late out of Whitehorse, but did have a first cup of Tim Horton coffee. Ate well in Whitehorse, but I believe one meal came with gravy as a vegetable. Day two there (sinday) was as gray and cool as day one was gloriously sunny.

Spent an hour after dinner monday making a Tulsa skyline sign for erection in the Watson lake sign forest. Many thanks to the ladies at the visitor center for the helpful information about Cassier hwy. Best views will still be in rearview because we will be heading south into the sun.

Watson lake TV news is from Seattle, rather than Calgary or Toronto.

yukon

Yesterday we saw the White River, that flows to the Yukon, and the Kluane that flows to the white. Today we stayed by the Yukon that flows 1500 miles to the sea. Paddle wheelers came here; as they came to Fairbanks and to Dawson City. And we've seen the Tanana river flow wild past the Park, and the Susitna flowing to the Cook inlet with its wonderful fishing. We saw the Cook Inlet and The gulf of Alaska and prince William sound.

We stopped short of Kodiak island and bristol bay and Cordova, and now know that we'd like to see Kobuk valley and the western arctic caribou herd.

Today we rested and planned. It was cool and rainy and yesterdays perfect weather seems far away. As does the home stretch which, it seems, won't start before September.

chilcoot Chewy

Back in Canada. The customs agent said we can bring back as many mosquitos as we want.

The road took us around the upper end of Kluane lake (clue wan), past Slim creek on the flats.  It was like a cathedral with God there. Silent awe.

Other than that, we drove past Tetlin wildlife refuge (took some pics of trumpeter swans) and past the gateway to Mt Elias at Haines Junction. I believe it was the most beautiful day of the year in Haines jct.

Road to Haynes Junction.

Sea Wolf has donned a cookie monster outfit; no food left in the vehicle is safe from predation in our absence. I plan to vacuum tomorrow.

Tok, AK

Tok AK again. Air conditioning here still looks like oscillating fan. Prices seem cheaper than our first visit.

Came up Richardson hwy from valdaz. Drove up through Keystone canyon, through Thompson pass where the '98 trail was located.  Had views of mt wrangell much of the day. Visitor center and ranger station facilities for the 19 million acre Wrangell- st Elias park, formed in 1980, are nascent.

public transport

It was a glacier day on the Alaska marine highway. We left early (for us) from Seward and traveled through intermittent fog. The portage glacier area was foggy, so all we saw there was some small icebergs floating in the mist.

The so-called Whittier tunnel was a unique driving experience due to its length, small single lane size, and railroad tracks in the middle of the roadway.  The roadway ends at Whittier harbor a mile after emerging from the granite massif.  It was a bright sunny day and we pbj picniced on the truck tailgate.

Before long we were lining up and loading onto the ferry vessel Aurora for a 5 1/2 hour trip through prince William sound. We passed by many glaciers and ice fields (Sorry no names) and sighted a whale, a dolphin, and a sea lion resting on a bouy. Visibility was excellent with the exception of a couple of fog banks.  It was our first public transport on this trip. We really enjoyed letting someone else do the driving. There was a reasonably price mess, lots of quiet, comforable places to sit, and plenty of fresh air on deck.

Here in Valdez we had fresh, large seafood portions for dinner. Best salmon I've ever had. Drove around the head of the bay to sightsee. Collapsed in a modular construction motel with paper thin walls.

camel in the tent

The harbor area of Seward is a narrow strip of land located at the base of precipitous wooded mountain slopes along which runs the highway into town. (Said highway turns to gravel past the old downtown area.) The hotels are strung along the highway. Next is a row of shops and restaurants owned by the hotels, then a street, then commercial vendors and restaurants interdisguise fronting the harbor. Snow capped mountains overlook the bay and the harbor. 60°F feels cool.

Left homer early. Enjoyed ten minutes of sunshine before entering a dense fog bank.
No bears at Russian river ferry, run by private contractor for park or forest service. "No bears." The attendant mumbled. Don't know where they are. His legs were crossed and his boots were up on the rail between us. "No shit. You slovenly ass." I replied. "There are no cars here and no crowds of retired silvers in reverse spawning cycle parking their RVs.  Hope you enjoy spending that $11.25 we just paid to park for five minutes. By the way, enjoy that load of plastic trash floating in your pit toilets." (Due respect to Hunter Thompson and gonzo journalism). I've tried hard to keep him out of this trip, but there you go- the camel is in the tent.

Pulled into Seward mid afternoon following a hike to the foot of Exit glacier. Beautiful stroll.  Sea Wolf ate our lunch while waitng in the truck. His new appellation is cookie monster.

Toured the sea life center. Even with Exxon paying for it, it cost twenty bucks to enter.

A 16 yr old from Idaho pulled in a 335 lb halibut yesterday to gain the lead in Homer's fishing derby.

Tomorrow - a tunnel.

corn again?

Last night in the halibut fishing capital of the world. Went by homer brewery but no oysters till tomorrow. Still loving on their warehouse open front vibe. Got a cap.

Moved on to ' fresh catch' restaurant. Blinding view of sunset and the ferries coming in to the terminal. Ate every kind of seafood on the menu except shrimp. Wisconsin corn was a featured menu item.

 Stopped at Salty Dawg pub on the spit, decorated a dollar bill with skyline rendition, did some shopping and returned to micro room.

Earlier, took advantage of the clear weather to photograph volcanic mountains previously hidden (mt redoubt, pals) and look through local art offerings. Took an hour to sketch the beach from our front door. Walked on beach at low tide. Found a rock that looked like face in Munch's "Scream". Too heavy to take so set it up on end for display.

kachemak bay

Rode across the bay with 28 other passengers and two crew on the Danny J, a boat built around 1938. It was a troop transport in WWII. It was refitted in 1966.

 Today it took us to halibut cove for a 3 hour interlude that included hiking and lunch.

We saw cormorants, puffins and sea otters on the voyage, experiencing salt spray in the bow and water on the decks aft. It gets choppy when the wind is strong out of the sw and the tide is running out. The strong current (indeed there is a tidal bore) is why oysters grow so well here.  Chewy the dog earned his sea wolf badge.

From the harbor on homer spit you can charter a fishing vessel, take a water taxi to hiking trails in the state parks, or climb aboard the Alaska marine highway to the Aleutians. You can also try your luck from shore at the fishing hole, and haul in salmon.

We are in an historic structure tonight, with beach and bay and glacier view.  Room dimensions about 8' x 10', so it is cozy.

Have booked passage across prince William sound. Hope we can find a sedative for the sea wolf, as he will be spending 6 hours in the vehicle by himself.

PS. Keep your eye peeled for the new York times Wednesday edition in the revamped "Food Now" section during September. I hear that Saltry restaurant at Halibut Cove will be featured.

sunny in Homer

The sun is out in Homer, and it is beautiful. There is a brewery here and we are in it. Doing what best is done in such a place. The oysters arrive at four, or thereabouts, fresh from kachemak bay. (Sp) that is why we wait. On the way out of here on weds, if the tide is bringing in the silvers, we cross the Russian river by ferry to see grizzlies fishing. (We just didn't feel like paying $500 each for guided flight or boat tours)

Weve started making reservations at Seward and Valdez and points on toward canada that can be considered homeward bound, but we will try to hold that feeling at bay.

The oysters have arrived. We have dined like kings and queens, and I now have a bucket list - come back here and do this again.

Home(r) bound (updated)

Brakes feel good. Truck is packed. Rain is falling. Today we drive around the Turn again arm and down to the Kenai peninsula. After that, ..

Arrived safely homer around 4:30 pm., following a 230 mile drive highlighted by the turquoise colored kenai river and a short, terrifying hike just upstream of the new canyon creek wayside, at which you could purchase coffee, jerky, hunting knives and probably some other stuff.  The tide was out, so we did a bit of beach combing prior to checking out the spit, which is beyond my descriptive powers.  I was too tired to enjoy the agglomeration of ferry, fish for sale, food and retail sales, fishing, , and the largest gathering of RVs I have ever seen - all surrounded by salt water and overlooked by glacial ice fields.

guaranteed catch

Motivation can be elusive when you spend the afternoon sitting in a faux leather recliner, reading a book, sipping an Alaskan amber beer and munching on crispy cheetos, listening to traffic through a window open to a rainy 60° day.

We did complete our art survey today. My favorite works are a drummer of mixed traditional and contemporary design, made of whale bone, offered at the hospital gift shop in Anchorage, and a simple wood mask at a trade shop in Fairbanks.

I painted this morning. A watercolor of the Alaska RR yard at Healy, AK, done from a pencil sketch.

Motivated for dinner around seven. Headed to the taproot for a kick ass burger. Only trouble was the show was sold out, so we went downtown for seafood at the Bridge restaurant, located conveniently over Ship creek. The sun came out, and we watched the fishermen wading and casting into the stream, trying to piss off the salmon enough to take their lures. I believe I would prefer the fish trap method.  The tide came in so the fishermen moved upstream.

Sunday - a room w/o a bed

Lazy lazy lazy day. Extended stay America. We have a room without a bed. First one this trip.  It seems luxurious.  Listened to TV commentary that US had to bomb Islamic state to protect Americans in Erbil. The room with a bed is also nice.

Came back downtown. Had pizza by the slice at the bus depot (Have to be careful where you step on the sidewalk.) Watched news of the middle east with commentary that the US could easily transport all Americans out of Erbil by helicopter. Next stop the captain cook hotel with its shops and restaurants and lounges. Watched a bit of nfl . Luxury.

Dined in.

 Room View: Courtyard of Extended Stay America

Went to the Spenard farmers market yesterday. Then left the truck for an oil change.  Need new brake pads on rear.

Walked along Campbell creek trail and some intervening streets for 3 1/2 hours. Stopped along the way for coffee at Golden Donuts. Yum. Watched coho salmon spawning at a footbridge crossing. Path heavily used by bicycles. Saw some aging/dated/corny tourist attractions. I know where to go to see Dusty Sourdough perform live on stage.

view from Golden Donuts

anchorage

 Had a delicious bowl of noodle soup last night. Larry's Cocoon. Asian fusion. Spicy. Also found the coast trail, which isn't as easy as it sounds the first time in downtown.  Walked along the knik arm for a short way. Saw mud flats, cargo containers piled up at the harbor, and sleeping woman mountain across the inlet. Drove south of town to a large municipal (kincaid) park that contains an extensive series of trails dedicated to xcountry skiing in winter.

Drove through another cloud while coming down from denali. Saw fishermen in the streams, as the silver salmon are running. Ate some fresh seafood in Talkeetna. Moved on to make way for all the tour buses.  Came through Wasilla and its beautiful valley to Anchorage. Anchorage drivers are in a hurry. About 1 in 3 has manners.
Walked this pm. Found ship creek down by the depot. Lots of fishermen, just like in all the pics.

yes virginia

There is a tall mountain. Some days it hides in the clouds and rain falls all day long. So you just have to believe.

Another gray day, so we explored Healy and environs. The Healy spur leads down to the Healy access road, crossing the river, passing the coal fired electric power plant and continuing west uphill and along the river. We turned after a couple messy miles and recrossed the river where a school bus with empty trailer waited for some rafters to arrive.

The spur road verso the landing area skirts the Alaska RR siding and tracks where you can watch observation cars go past. If you ignore the forbidding no trespassing signs posted by the RR and stay to the right, you can ascend a steep grade to what I assume are state lands. Thus- Healy access. I took the time to sketch the RR siding from above with the river crossing in the background. The power plant, located immediately across the river from the takeout, is not visible. Upon returning to the spur road, you pass the airport on the right. I stopped to photograph a plane for my fav. Aero engineer.

We ate at a pub/cafe/motel in town, ordering breakfast with eggs. We can't find raw eggs for sale locally, and are thinking conspiracy.

After lunch we drove north toward Fairbanks a couple miles, taking the Stampede road for about eight miles until it petered out to a track. Lots of tundra tours are offered back there, many on atv's. It is gorgeous. State lands with power and sewer extended along the road as the licensee demand moves in.

The rain just kept on coming.

a good day

Even though i find that ten days of dirt will not hold together jeans worn 40 straight days (material fatigue at the seam), it was a good day.  The sky was blue and we had a great view of mt McKinley.

It was there, but ninety degrees off from where I thought it would be. We walked around where the tourists were housed back in the twenties and thirties. We hiked at savage river. A caribou coursed up the river and through the tourists at the trailhead picnic area.



This evening I realized that Alaska is a long way away from all my troubles and cares. (Big fricking grin)!?! Dog and i walked down the Healy spur from our lodging toward the river cut.  Made it as far as the RR yard. Will paint there tomorrow.

So long from the great silent space.

polychrome pass

The highlight for me of the parks road bus trip was not the very plain bus accommodation or the clouds which obscured McKinley, et al.  Neither was it the caribou (huge antler racks) foraging in sable pass nor the Dall sheep high on the rocks visible near our turnaround stop at the foot of divide mtn.  It was the view of the Alaska range going up polychrome pass, which road was non too wide when meeting another vehicle. Perhaps we should have laid in another day, as we found the sun in the sky this morning following a twelve hour snooze. Its time now to fold the tent, which our host kindly let me stretch to dry in his garage/man cave before going in search of a mountain view.

Denali Park: Savage River with Alaska Range.

9" x 12" Oil on Board. 2015

Trying to balance the values. January 2016

old man winter

Healy, AK. Near the park. Got a bus ticket to mile 52 tomorrow. Toklat. I think. Probably won't even get off the bus. Its supposed to rain again. 50°f with wind whipping rain right now. At least I won't be driving - and the wildlife may be out. Weather forecast looks like the denali view we had from Fairbanks last week may have been our best look. Like they say in Fairbanks: "it always rains for the fair." The Tanana river valley state fair. Rodeo tonight. The world's northernmost, though we already fell for that boast.  Visited park headquarters earlier. Lots of dining and lodging opportunities over at the park entrance, though nothing like a decent grocer. Should have brought more provisions. Maybe we'll finally get into the mre-style rice/beans I brought. Really raining now outside our windows here at the Alaskan Spruce Cabins. Cozy with sat. TV, Wi-Fi, kitchenette. Yay. What a funny word.

Healy airport

view from Healy, AK lodgings

morning thunder

yesterday beautiful and clear, so we camped at chena campground right at university and airport way.  got to see the undersides (real close up) of several airplanes coming in to land at the airport.  sat there for quite a while working three versions of monument creek paintings (closing in on the greens).  got some pretty good Italian food over on college ave near creamer's field, at which we saw many large migratory birds that we figure as some kind of cranes.  they have a red patch on their head, otherwise grays and browns.  forgot yesterday to mention the fox we saw on the way into town.  the moose pics look good. (large, brown, looks like cow, grazing in four feet of water, friend named rocky).


so anyway, brewed a pot of morning thunder tea this morning. enjoyed the ritual and the hot beverage.  then off to 'bun on the run', my favorite open air coffee shop.  floundered all over their cinnamon roll! next - free shower anyone? 

moosin, hikin, soakin

back in fairbanks.  three nights at chena hot springs.  good hiking (legs are sore), bad painting (just can't get those greens)

Monument Creek at Cheena Hot Springs

 and hot soaking in the rock pool (contemplative soak for adults). got some good pics of a moose grazing in 3-4 ft of water this morning on the way in to town.



 found why the japanese so enjoy watching the northern lights at the resort from october through april.  local legend would have it that children conceived under the aurora borealis are more likely to be gifted.   denali next.

Sunday morning

A day to assess. Am I losing weight or just latching my belt tighter, lower? Maybe I'll assess again next Sunday.  Today we head for chena river hot springs.

Worked late last night on a painting started two days ago. Cold evening with not so great a result. Had some folks stop by to chat. One an Eskimo girl in flip flops with lots of different, overlapping stories. Definitely a fluid version of her current and past circumstances.

Yesterday dawned sunny. We went to university Alaska Fairbanks and their museum of the north. Up on a hill. There was denali/McKinley in the south. Not a basin and range scenario but a dominating presence floating above an hazy middle distance. Not as startling as the various roadside moose we saw coming up from tok, but only because not so immediate. There were lots of denali images locally in the museum and local shops, so it dominates. And lots of interesting stories of Alaska and life in Alaska. The tourist info center had great day in the life displays. A nice museum in its own right.

Spoke with some locals and yes - winter here is severe. And this summer is cooler and rainier than last summer. No forest fires now as last year. We have the cool weather we were seeking.

Attended the farmers market. Permanent structure plus lots of outside booths. Probably over a hundred booths. Lots of arts/crafts and LOTS of prepared foods. Bandstand among the birches. Tomatoes for$6.00/lb. Reindeer hot dogs at $6.50 each.

same places twice

Fairbanks is in a bowl. We will go to the university museum on the hill in the morning. If it is clear we will see Denali. Am looking forward to the Inuit work there.  Farmers market as well tomorrow. Looked around downtown today. There is a bang up tourist welcome center, a river path, and ONE block, one side of interesting shops. (Missing Dawson City). Nice local co op arts. Good water colors, multimedia and whale bone carvings.

Went to a regional park across airport way, tucked between university ave and the river. Nice treed campsites there. Emptied out the truck, shook off the dust, reorganized, fetched the dog, and reworked a painting of the road north from eagle plains. I liked the result. my affection for my new painting box continues to grow. I'm painting what is in front of me each day. I guess that is one lesson from Charley Russell. Now if I could only tell a tale.

Had breakfast today. Same place as lunch yesterday. Also revisited the Safeway grocery. Went to the Denny's next door - billed as the northernmost in existence. I wish they had kept going.

Thanks to Janice, Kain, john, Julie, Vivian and my Allstate agent for your birthday wishes. I have survived the event. Hope I didn't forget anyone.

Here is the view from the hill at University of Alaska, Fairbanks.  That is the airport in the foreground.  In the background, improbably large, is a glimpse of Denali.  The art museum is located on this hill.  I enjoyed most the 'alaska regionalists/impressionist realists' on display.  What wonderful, colorful, historical, lyrical paintings.  

Here is Chewy; happy to have a stick to fetch.  I'm glad he did not decide to fetch the whale bones lying about nearby.  There were also mining relics on display in the open.  

There was live entertainment on the river walk downtown, sans the crowds.  I get the feeling that the entire town celebrates life in June, but that by mid July they are starting to make the relations they will need to survive the coming winter.  

rain, rain Fairbanks

Fairbanks. The mountain is hiding, but we have time to wait. Seven days till our reservation at denali. 55°f and rain today. One of the party not feeling well.

Trying to feel like I'm back in the USA. Successful mostly. Dollar works. Gas at 4.50, down from six bucks. Roads better. But still knowing home is 75 hours of driving time and 50 days away. At 10:30 darkness will be here (sort of) in a couple hours.

Traded out my black swoosh tennis for the waterproof boots today. Walked the dog behind the motel; through a narrow band of trees - found a correctional institution. Barbed wire, warning signs. Opted for the street signed for the old pioneer home. Figured it for an historic site. Saw an old ore car and freight wagon, but it was a nursing home. Oh well. Pioneer park is very close. Salmon bake with crab legs and prime ribs every day from 5 - 9 since 1970-something. Lots of campers/RVs over there. Just beyond is the curling club. They seem to go hand in hand with super8.

when am I?

Tok tonight. The usual wide spot in the road with double frontage and a good grocery if you're lucky. Top of the world highway today. Julie drove. Parts are like going to the sun highway in glacier - without the guard rails. Came down past 40 mile river, through chicken with all the attendant gold mining ghosts past and present. Talked to a sourdough in town tonight- she holds the claims where the roads cross the rivers up 40 mile way. It was time for me to go when the bear stories started. Spent an extra day in Dawson to rest my back. Weather and light there - as here- idyllic. Ate at the sourdough saloon/ jack London grill. Lots of tall women and hardy lads. That town is friendly. I guess because they don't have much other way of holding on. I can hear planes and motorcycles and four wheelers reaching for speed. Painted two pics tonight. Starting to loosen up a bit.
Damn hoteliers give you one hour only of internet. I'm surprised they let you wake up in the same bed.

View northeast along top of the world highway

ice road trucker

Camped out in a 5th wheel rv listening to crow telling stories of the north. Saw the sun come up around 3 this morning. Passed above arctic circle this morning, so expect there to be no sunset this night. Ice road will get you if you lose patience. Rode two free ferries. Adieu. All season road is being built straight across the tundra from Tok, so Dempster will be eclipsed. Night. Night.

 

Arctic circle trash cans.

Crossing at Fort McPherson

Red River of the North.

Local transport.

solid building, Inuvik.

Landmarks, Inuvik.

abstract - real

Sitting at eagle's nest/ eagle plains motel 21 km south of arctic circle. 230 miles of unpaved road to get here. Last 50 miles on a ridge with distant mtn ranges visible to each side. Weather cloudy much of day. No rain. Just sprinkles. The dust in and outside the truck keeps building. Motel built by/for oil exploration engineers in mid fifties, as was road.  Much of land ceded to first nation by treaty.

Just had our first flat tire repaired. Got to watch a gravel hauler get back two tires replaced while I waited. Always wondered how those doubles were mounted. Finally got mine patched at ten p.m. - closing time. Now enjoying oh henry nut bar and orange soda In the bar. Tender just showed me pics of a bear taken raiding candy bars in the gift shop (30 feet away) four days ago. Welcome to the Yukon.

500 miles of bad road in abstract does not raise philosophical questions as does mud and ruts and washcoard and dust. Noise and vibration and tension. Racing faster at the end over worse roads. Considered flying from Whitehorse. Phew.

Spoke w camping couple alongside Yukon hwy this morning. They has fresh caught char in the skillet with a side of mushrooms gathered on top of world hwy. Using Coleman stove of ancient vintage.

note to self - waterfalls

Watson lake to Whitehorse had three camera stops for waterfalls. Smith river was tallest. Rancheros falls was a double, and Whirlpool falls has the most ominous name. All are worth the stop and look.

there was a camp site at Whirlpool falls.  You could see that people sat around the fire on long logs that had been pulled up for that purpose.  

This is Rancheria falls.  there was an elevated boardwalk leading down to the two sets of falls, complete with mosquitos.  

The first set of falls at Rancheria.

The road to Smith falls was rough, about a mile long.  You wondered what would happen meeting another vehicle on the road, as there weren't many turn offs.  The parking area was small, and much in need of a toilet and some cleaning, as it was obvious that people were using the area as a toilet.  There was a steep trail leading straight down to the river below the falls, which we did not take.  This image was taken using a telephoto lens.  It was the biggest falls of the day, and only the upper part of it is shown in the frame. 

the real thing

The Yukon river is flowing by across the street. It is fast, and had to be to carry gold. The paddle wheelers came Herr. Now its mostly rv's parked at Walmart. Downtown was lousy with tourists in the afternoon. Now its deserted except for hard cases. Nightclub types will be out later. Came across Teslin river on a long bridge across the beginning of its large bay, the upper part of which contains a large river delta home to migratory waterfowl.

Walked through sign forest before leaving Watson lake. Started in the early forties, it is now an organic, cooperative work of art more than 70 years old. Wished I had brought a sign.

Three more days of northerly travel will bring us to Inuvik on my birthday - if road conditions allow.

a walk in the woods

These towns require a bit of scratching to expose their glitter. Watson lake no exception. Community center built as earth envelope. Tourist center has sign forest, located right next to the curling rink. New hospital and schools. Nice homes located on the lake fronts. Walked a couple miles on forested trails around a lake. Buddy Chew came along.
Saw wildlife on the drive today. First, a young moose (based on shape of skull and broad nose) - or a young caribou (based on color of scruff. Next a selection of bears, black male, sow and tiny cub, and a brown bear with long hair. All were upland, and eating ants or grubs or some such.  Should I count the dead porcupine?
And was this a good day? Let us just say that a walk in the north woods was a reminder of why this way we came.

dead parrot

Two days ago? Drove from grand prairie (55k people w/o hwy bypass) through Dawson creek (mile 0 Alaska hwy), and peace river (all geographic features/human enterprise large), through ft st john (not in this order) ith all its oilfield dust and smoke from tumbler ridge forest fire to ft nelson. Anyway, radio DJ played the Monte python gig about phrases referring to death. Hilarious. Busted a gut. So to speak. One day ago. . . started with good coffee, walk dog and about 30 flights of motel stairs. Ended in Toad River. Idyllic enough in its own way.  Mountains water trees etc. Army guy headed south to LA posting said road much busier with more businesses and tourists than three years ago. Cabin we stayed in was on skids. No a.c. we waited for sun to go low to crash (11:00). I worked a couple of small paintings.

more north, hot north, long north, go

Camped along the Athabasca river in jasper park friday night. Same campsite as 7? years ago with son john. Set up my new paint box and worked for an hour, getting one board covered with paint and one covered with drawing notes.  Nice path to river from camp. Good place for fetching the dog. Short walk to the crapper. Rice beans corn for dinner. Chocolate for dessert. Slept in till seven. Enjoyed the cool night. Stopped for a nice French style coffee in Jasper. Lunch out of the esso station cooler at grand cache and a ride through the oil patch to Grand Prairie, which is a dry 95°. 1300 miles to go before the turn on the Dempster highway. Long way.

Forgot to tell about Chewy the wonder dog finding his muse - an open range cow in deep cover along the road north of waterton park. I was taking his picture when suddenly he was gone. There was a crashing in the underbrush and the dog's owner was moving rapidly down the road shouting his name. It was a herding dog reacting (feloniously?) to a random chance to fulfill his previously unimagined destiny. Quite delightful.

At the end of our highland drive from grand cache through the oil fields, we came past 3- 4 hundred Canadians congregated along the river 12 km south of grand prairie. It was more idyllic from the highway than up close.

international rules

og tired in Alberta 70 km from anywhere. Saw broken head buffalo dump (appr name). Its a world heritage site. Famous for 350 miles in all directions so long as you don't cross an int'l border. Could have stayed at townsite campground in Watertown lakes but tour director got happy feet. (Something to do with bears and tourist traps and covering ground to get to the far freaking northern reaches of the continent.) The size of this adventure is beginning to become apparent. Happy 93d birthday to my dad.

Rose early today with the other glacier park campers. Julie drove us out of the high country, as I had some altitude sickness while coming down the 'sun' highway last evening. Nasty bout of dizziness nausea on that road was scary.

Money and credit cards here are higher tech than in the states. Bit of an inconvenience. Our bills hold up better in the laundry, but thats about it.

approach

Great Falls is a placid, peaceful place in the hot, high plains sun of a fair summer day. The dams have slowed the river, as the decades old loss of the copper smelter slowed the town. There are the tourists headed for the mountains and the breaks, but the town doesn't feel of them. Rather, it rests on the slow growing wheat waving in the wind, and its favorite son - charlie - still telling whoppers of the old west to green horns. Ex. The Holdup, on museum display. The old Mint saloon is gone, replaced by the ubiquitous gambling halls and, I suppose, soldiers on weekend base leave.

Chew and I took our evening walk from a bare bones motel room in east glacier. under the tracks, past the dominating lodge and the adjacent wooded rv park for workers, down a gravel road, stream crossing and back through the Amtrak station and over the BNSF RR.

north

first it was time for family.  then it was time to follow the high line west. now it is time to head north.  with due apologies to Ft Benton and to moderately impressive geographic features in Saskatchewan, we are off to glacier park, to calgary, and to jasper via the mountain path.  we stayed last night at the laquinta in great falls, right on the green belt next to the river.  we spent some time at the national parks interpretive center located just downstream of the power dam on the river, and just upstream of warm springs.  we walked to the warm springs which are a year round constant temperature of 54 degrees.  I guess warm water was a relative thing when wintering in montana in the early 1800's.  today we visit the charles russell museum, gather a few supplies, and head to the high season at glacier park. hope there is a campsite for us.

gravel dust

Each town along the hi/high line has its own bit of surprise. Havre and its casinos were all but deserted (though the motels were full).

we set off yesterday morning to see beaver creek recreation area. It was all pretty informal and beautiful. We got into a bit of 4 wheeling before coming out the south end, headed toward the breaks. No road signs so we had to do some guessing. Eventually, after crossing the river at Judith's landing, and traversing 60 - 80 miles of gravel road, we ended in lewistown, which sits surrounded by mtns in all directions.

Motel8 here s ucks, bad WiFi, bad matress, small rooms.

Have only on good sketch from ft union. Dark clouds traveling across the sky's here.

first heat in big sky

Started the day with coffee near the train/grain station in DT williston. One Amtrak came through. We saw many trains all day along hwy 2, and had the dubious opportunity to pitch a tent on a grassy area RIGhT next to the tracks. As it turns out, we have the special needs toilet away from the casino but right next to the tracks. Good thing the hurricane roar or the bathroom fan will help drown out the trains. So havre it is, with many peeps of in the mtns camping. Lots of we love Canadians signs, so this must be a mecca. Lots of bead work in the pawn shops. Some looks worn. Next day or two hope to see upper Missouri breaks.

running the gauntlet in the peace garden state

Used all my digital film on the shores of lake bemidji yesterday morn capturing Paul Bunyan and babe the blue ox in a sea of trash cans marshalled for use in the annual water festival. Walked through a city park, past the curling club and through the Frisbee golf course - tight wooded fairways. Stopped for supplies in crookston and for lunch on the shore of the red river of the north in grand forks. Got a free steak dinner in Minot because the service was slow.

Drove through new town and Watford city to williston today. eighty miles of grass, canola, rv trailers, construction, oil wells, traffic and road construction. Lewis and Clark wouldn't believe their eyes. Traffic was lined up for two miles coming into new town from the west.

Williston is a mess. As is the dog, who is freaked out by the fireworks popping.

west of the Mississippi

Crossed the mighty miss at hastings, ball club (name of town) and bemidji (means nothing happened today). Shouldn't see the river again. Saw old downtown Duluth. Pretty nice place. Rain, cold.

habit and the pleasant valley tenant in chief.

Red wing , mn. Tired and ready to be filled with the possibilities of travel - other than flooded and submrerged river access along the great river road.  My remembrance of WI as one great weed is revived.

Dad's desk is now situated so that he can keep tabs on his beloved township, watch TV, and doze - all activities within inches of each other. Meanwhile two of my vertebrae are closer than they used to be.

Woke in the gray unease of family change, then napped til eight. Dad had eaten. "eating by eight is a habit I keep".  All the documents are done, the changes made. Have arrived at brother's tombstone epithet. " he dazzled us because he could." Mine follows: "he could be nice. He just couldn't do it for money.

Time to walk the dog.

ashes to ashes

best of wisconsin must include "love on the terrace" last night.  monona terrace. lake in the background.  show band "love monkeys" in performance.  vicki's home made fritters and latte for breakfast.  big brother and I filled mom's urn with ashes and a favored picture.  interment tomorrow.  friday is the day for cheese curds in the driftless area.  hope to land on top of that with both feet.  new phone not delivering text messages yet, so frownie face to those I love - to communicate with. sunny. sunny. sunny. day.

velocity

We will try this post again. escape velocity attained at 12:35 pm today. Rei in op, ks had some kick butt cots. We now have two. Goodbye thermarest. Hotel on s main near plaza was nice to us and found a room. Local chef restaurant "Ingredients" fresh and good pizza/salad.

Sunday

first up sunday morning - lemonade for the osu types at summer solstice frizbee tourney in catoosa.

I mixed two glazes.  One, the all purpose green that goes in and out of style every year or so.  The other for use in the white on white scheme so popular with the Nest, Tulsa and their clientele.  Thanks to Adrienne, who has a sharp eye for style.

Next show should be september at the unplaza art fair in beautiful kc. May stop by at tulsa cherry street market for a cameo before then.

I have scheduled a show, and am returning to Shades of Brown Coffee Shop in March 2015 to display and sell paintings from the canada/alaska trip. Thanks Melinda.

USA USA USA!!!! today is the day to win a soccer match.  you can never quiet the one trick nfl ponies, but another two weeks of soccer will kick ass.

in the beginning

biblical reference to honor the folks back home in boscobel, wi who spent some of their life journey with me. we have about 10 days left to prepare for our driveabout of canada and alaska,. it is time to get busy, time to start shedding daily routines.  just a few more items of pottery to make - small pitchers and jars. I am making an urn for my mom's ashes. interment on june 28.