Sitting at eagle's nest/ eagle plains motel 21 km south of arctic circle. 230 miles of unpaved road to get here. Last 50 miles on a ridge with distant mtn ranges visible to each side. Weather cloudy much of day. No rain. Just sprinkles. The dust in and outside the truck keeps building. Motel built by/for oil exploration engineers in mid fifties, as was road. Much of land ceded to first nation by treaty.
Just had our first flat tire repaired. Got to watch a gravel hauler get back two tires replaced while I waited. Always wondered how those doubles were mounted. Finally got mine patched at ten p.m. - closing time. Now enjoying oh henry nut bar and orange soda In the bar. Tender just showed me pics of a bear taken raiding candy bars in the gift shop (30 feet away) four days ago. Welcome to the Yukon.
500 miles of bad road in abstract does not raise philosophical questions as does mud and ruts and washcoard and dust. Noise and vibration and tension. Racing faster at the end over worse roads. Considered flying from Whitehorse. Phew.
Spoke w camping couple alongside Yukon hwy this morning. They has fresh caught char in the skillet with a side of mushrooms gathered on top of world hwy. Using Coleman stove of ancient vintage.
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